Pear - a tree is not very winter-hardy. It is more difficult to grow more than an apple tree, but then it will thank you with beautiful, juicy and healthy fruits. This article will tell how to plant and grow a pear.

Features of pear growing

Many believe that the pear is a tree-related apple tree, so they are trying to grow it by the same technology. Meanwhile, they are very different:

• pear tolerates frost worse;
• it is demanding to the soil. She needs a bright, warm and dry place;
• the pear tree will grow there, where the groundwater is closer to one and a half meters.

Each type of pears has its own climatic conditions.

All varieties of pears can be divided into 3 types:

• early ripening or summer. They are only suitable for chernozem. This is the "thinner", and "pharmacy", and "Bergamot Novik", and the "yellow summer", and "Lada", and "prominent";
• middle or autumn. This can include grade "Forest Beauty", "Bergamot Autumn", "Meshamänka". Grow in the middle lane;
• late or winter. The best place for them is the middle bar. Some varieties are stored until spring. The winter belongs to Northerkhanka, "Space", "New Year", "Venus".

Preparation for landing pears

The landing of pears is possible twice a year: both in spring and autumn. The main thing in this business is to properly prepare a pit for landing.

Right pit

The pit in which we will put a seedlove must comply with the following requirements:

• if your plans include a spring landing, then about the pit take care of autumn;
• when landing pears in the fall, dig for this purpose a pit of the week for four;
• little pit will not suit. The roots of pear will be difficult to take root in the cramped conditions, which means that the pear takes off, and if it does not die, then the crop will have to wait too long;
• the optimal size of the planting space for a strong seedling is a diameter of 1.2 m, the depth of 0.6 m;

• a pit to the same depth is digging a pit for a dwarf pear, but her diameter is half less.

Rules ensuring success

So, determined with the place and landing time, proceed to the case, i.e. the hole. But, in no hurry to throw the earth to the right and left - here there is also order:

• from above is a layer of fertile land. We carefully put it aside;
• the subsequent layers are already less fertile and we are folded separately;
• sand prevails on your site, then this soil should be enriched: add compost or peat with clay. This additive should be half the volume of soil. Some gardeners are arranged every 0.2 m so-called screens consisting of a mixture of clay with manure. The thickness of such a screen is several centimeters;
• in the case of the presence of clay soil, we take the land of the upper layer and mix it with peat, humus, sand. It turns out a loose mixture;
• for well-being seedlings, in the pit we make a kilogram of 30 organic fertilizers. There are also mineral fertilizers.

The mixture of mineral fertilizers includes the following components:

• potassium chloride - 150 g;
• superphosphate - 800 g;
• lime - 1.5 kg;
• if the planting is performed in spring, then add nitrogen fertilizers.

Take note: Superphosphate can be replaced with 1 kg of ash woody.

Acquire a pear saplings

By purchasing a pear seedling, remember that the tree you go for many years, so choose it carefully:

1. Purchase on the market is a risky business. A seedling can be poor quality, and after some time it will also be found that the variety is not the one that you wanted.
2. There are ate opportunity, contact directly in the nursery, there and the boarding material is high quality, and in addition, get a lot of useful tips. When there is no such possibility, refer to suppliers with a good reputation. You can order a seedling by mail, for example: the Moscow Region Nursery "Sadograd" has high-quality fabric for planting.
3. To be sure that the seedling corresponds to the variety, look at the label: The responsible seller will indicate not only the name of the variety, but also a brief description of its features, some recommendations on landing, as well as information about the breeder, which this variety has derived.
4. The best seedling is the age that has not exceeded 3 years. The older will suit if it dug up with a large earthen room. In order not to trust only the word of the seller regarding the age of a seedling, look at its trunk and roots:

• if there is no branching - a seedling no more than a year. The height of such a plant usually does not exceed 120 cm, and the trunk is thin - 10 mm, not more. On a high-quality plant, starting from the middle of the trunk and to the very top there are kidneys well-evolved. The roots at one-stage have a length of 20 cm. A good seedling has 3 thick main roots and many additional roots. At the same time, no thickens on the roots should not be - this is a sign of diseases, among which may be the root cancer;
• if there are signs of starting branching - a seedling of the year 2-3;
• on a two-year-old strabr, i.e. The gap root neck-side branches, height has time to reach 0.5 m. The barrel is not thinner than 1 cm. Another 3-year seedlings should be present at least 3-side branches with a length of 0.3 m and the central escape formed. Roots have a length of up to 30 cm.

This photo shows a well-developed root:

Healthy: Even if you have acquired a seedling that has a root system, there is not enough and there is only one central root, but strong enough, it can take care of very good care.

It will not hurt check the seedling and for its frozen. And do it like this:

• damaged seedlings, the bark on the roots will be peeling;
• we also focus on the root cut: pure and light - the sapling becomes bold, and we rejected the dark - it is strongly froms.

There are still such unwanted defects, in the presence of which, seedlings are better not to acquire:

• sometimes not very competent sellers dig for sale seedlings already in August, when their tops have not yet risen enough. They can be seen immediately: the tops of the shoots are soft, herbaceous, happy. When you plant such a plant in the fall, then in winter these are not overwhelmed branches. If you still treated to bring such a plant from the market, then do not fit it into a hole at once, but join the trees at an angle. Perhaps lucky and before the onset of large frosts, his falling on the snow, then the chances of survive will increase;
• if a seedlover with leaves purchased for landing in the fall, then they should be carefully removed without damaging the kidneys;
• if the purchase occurs in the spring, then see that the plants did not have blossomed leaves, except that the seedling is already placed in some kind of container with the ground;
• do not buy seedlings that managed to dry out. Sign of this defect: the bark on the trunk and branches wrinkled.

Landing pears

Yama is ready for you, the sapling bought, it's time to start:

• we inspect the seedling, cut the damaged ends of the roots;
• we prepare the chatter of 1 piece of clay, 2 parts - a cowboat and 5-6 parts of water. The seedling is immersed in this mixture;
• in the pit we smear a little soil so that the cone turned out. We set the seedlove with the center on the top of this cone and straighten the roots. Spend the soil. In the process of plugging the plant shake to prevent the formation of voids. After full sweating of the soil, gently hurt it. At the same time, the root cerv should rise above it by millimeters by 50-60;
• there are a groove around the seedling, we felt well water, then mulch;
• if the landing time is autumn, then before the onset of frosts, the tree is wrapped with reed or a dense cardboard, not to protect it from rodents, and in order to protect the roots, we turn around the 20-centimeter hill.

Trifle but very useful: Before boarding, take a semi-meter count in the ground. Subsequently, the re-planted pear is subsequently, so that it does not waste it. Position the tree from the north of Cola. He will protect it from the hot sun. Watch that what you attach a sapling, did not grow into his bark.

Caring for pear

If we want to get a good result, surround the sapling care. While it is not strengthened, the care of the pear needs a permanent:

• in addition to the fact that we poured our young pear when landing, in the spring and summer we also irrigate. Better if it is performed through sprayers;
• do not forget each time after irrigation to loosen the soil, not allowing the formation of the crust;
• make fertilizers;
• weeds regularly pull out, they take the nutrients at the tree.

Pruning pears

Crasing the pear in the spring, we form a compact crown. Crop pear, like other trees, it is necessary before the kidneys will be dissolved:

• if the annual seedlock was planted in autumn, then we cut it in the spring, leaving about the soil of 0.5 m, then low krone is formed;
• on a 2-year-old saplau can be formed, except for the main one, another vertical escape. It must be removed, cutting "on the ring." Perek do not leave;
• cut skeletal branches if there are more than 4. We leave those that are uniformly located around the trunk and have an angle of at least 45 degrees; Vertical escape should be longer than skeletal branches by 250 mm, and we shorten them on the same length. Approximately 4th part of the kidneys is cut;
• non-skeletal-forming branches do not cut off, but give them a horizontal position, having tied to spicks; For the next spring, the skeletal-forming branches repeat. At the same time, they must constantly stay longer than minor branches. We delete fully fat and grown in the middle of the branch crown - wolf. The crown shape gradually must become a pyramidal. It is most acceptable for many varieties of pears. If the trees are planted at a great distance from each other, then you can form a spherical crown. If on the contrary - the trees grow too thickly, then the crown is formed by vertical, i.e. All branches are in the same plane;
• places where we have worked as a secateur, lubricate garden wrair or paint based on olifa.

You can see the whole process on this video:

And the process of planting a tree on the started area is displayed here: