The assortment of sanitary equipment pleases consumers with its diversity. And at the same time, the latest inventions and new items are not always pleasantly surprised by their quality and reliability. There is a huge variety of baths, differing in size, design and material from which they are made. To date, the baths are mainly manufactured from the following materials: steel, acrylic, composite materials and cast iron. If from all the variety of baths, you still decided to buy a cast-iron bath - we will tell you about how to install it right.

Bath Characteristic

Cast iron baths, as before, are very popular. The advantages of such baths compared to acrylic products do not cause doubts. After all, the cast-iron bath has high strength, wear resistance, durability, and most importantly - high heat capacity. It is these baths longer than all the rest of the remaining heat and less susceptible to various damage and scratches. And the price of pig-iron bath is not particularly different from its competitors. The main disadvantage of such a bath is considered to be its high weight, but when it is properly installed, it is insignificant. You can save money by completing the installation of the bath with your own hands without resorting to the services of professional masters.

If you make a general repairs in the bathroom, then the installation of the bath must be done immediately after the end of the draft repair work. The finishing finish is carried out after installing the bathroom. Facing the walls of the cafeter is better to do after installing the bathroom, which will allow high-quality waterproofing and minimize the distance between the wall and the bathroom.

When installing the bath, it is important to take into account the nature of the floor covering. If you plan to put out floor tiles in the bathroom, we recommend that you install the bath directly on the screed, and then engage in the tile laying. It is undesirable to put a bath on the tile, as it can be sold by his weight. If instead of a tile, you use porcelain stoneware as an outdoor covering, in this case, you can not be afraid to put the bath directly on the floor. If the floor covering on which the bath is installed, mild (for example, a linoleum or wooden), then under each support it is necessary to put a plate of metal with a thickness of at least 5 mm, and a diameter of 50 mm. This will help prevent sex sediment.

Installation of cast-iron baths on legs

Sequence of work:

1. Paul preparation.

First of all, it is necessary to align the floor under the installation of the bathroom. Pay attention to the supports of your bath. If they are adjustable in height, then the requirements for flatness of the floor are not too principled. You can level the bath level by adjusting the height of the legs. The design of most products involves the presence of cast unregulated legs. In this case, you will need to align the floor strictly by level. Legs, like their attachments, must be durable and designed for heavy loads. They must be rigidly fixed on the outer part of the bath case.

2. Preparatory work.

Enter the bath to the room in which it will be installed. Note that the weight of the bathroom is large enough (sometimes more than 100 kg), so you will need help surrounding. Turn over it in such a way that the water drain hole is near the sewer tube. Install the supporting legs into the seating holes. Lock them with special fasteners. To reliably fix the connection, we advise you to put pieces of large sandpaper (rough side to the legs), which will eliminate the possible slip of the baths and legs.

3. Installing a siphon.

The installation of a siphon should be performed very well, since otherwise the water will leak on the floor that at least the discontent of the neighbors will cause a minimum. All work is performed manually, without using metal tools, since they can damage plastic.

Sequence of performance:

• the release of the siphon is tightly connected with the pouring hole of the bath, after which turn the special neck from above and for greater reliability to zamach the silicone sealant for plumbing. Note that the siphon's outlet nozzle must necessarily be higher than the level of general drain into the sewage system (by 20-30 mm);
• install the rubber gasket between the bottom of the bath and the siphon outlet;
• place the rubber coupling in the seeling pipe and also wake silicone;
• now connect the siphon with the sewage pipe and secure it;
• to install the overflow, it is necessary to combine its base with a overflow pipe using a gasket and a specially intended nut;
• the other end of the hose is attached to the siphon connector using a coupling.

After installing the siphon, pay attention, all the parts from the kit were involved. Give sealants to dry. And after 5 hours (and better after 10), skip some water volume through the siphon in order to ensure that it is reliable.

4. Final work.

Turn the bath to the correct position and put it on the previously installed supports. Now it is necessary to align the bath in the level and consolidate the supports. The design of different baths can assume the fastening of the legs to the floor in various ways: by driving into the floor of metal wedges or special tie bolts. The latter are clogged into the floor in several stages, with a slight awake in 3 directions to the edges of the bath from the center. Additional biases in the direction of the release of water do not need to be done, since, most likely, manufacturers have already taken care of this in the manufacture of the product. Just in case we advise you to check this slope hydraulic level. And otherwise, you will have to ensure it yourself by changing the height of the legs or the floor level.

5. Ground.

In the event that the bath is connected to the steel pipeline, be sure to make it ground using a special conductor, which will equalize the electrical potentials. To perform this work, you will need a wire with a length of at least two meters with a cross-section area from 6 kV / mm and PVC insulation. In new baths, for fastening grounding wire, there is already a special jumper. If you do not particularly understand the electrics, we advise this stage to entrust the professional, as the safety of your family depends on it.

6. Finishing work.

At this stage it is necessary to carry out waterproofing surfaces. If the bath is installed on the wall, then such a wall should be waterproof, for example, from tile. The gap between the bathroom and the wall we rinse the self-adhesive plastic ribbon, a rigid border of plastic or a decorative ceramic border. This stage of work is carried out after the finishing of the walls. The ceramic border is rather durable, practical and has a good form, but for its execution, certain skills and skills are needed. Plastic self-adhesive borders are installed much easier than ceramic, but for them the wall should be perfectly smooth. And the gap between the bathroom and the wall should be minimal. The rigid plastic border is not as demanding of the surfaces of the surfaces and can hide some flaws. In both cases, before installing the curb, it is necessary to process the adjacent surface of the wall and bath with a sanitary sealant, in order to avoid water flow.

7. Installing the decorative screen.

In order to give your bath an aesthetic and completed view, you need to install a decorative screen that will close the space under the bath. There are two varieties of screens of this type: deaf and removable. If you decide to use the "deaf" screen and bonded it with tiles, be sure to provide free access to the siphon. Removable screens with sliding doors are more practical. The screens of this type provide access to the free space under the bathroom, you also do not have any problems during the cleaning of the siphon. There are usually no problems with mounting screens, they are installed on the legs-struts.

How to install a cast-iron bath on bricks?

There is another way of mounting the bath - on a brick base. Some of the specialists argue that this method of installation is the most reliable and durable. But compared with the previous one, this method is more time-consuming and long. To fulfill it, it is not necessary to be a professional builder, this work is under power to any person who has an idea of \u200b\u200bwhat should happen in the end.

Necessary materials:

• bricks - up to 20 pieces;
• cement mortar;
• waterproof tile glue;
• trowel, spatula, hydraulic (or liquid) level;
• capacity for solution.

1. Calculate the number of bricks needed for your future supports. The masonry should be a few bricks height, with a distance between the supports - about 50 cm. If you install a standard bath (150 cm), then it will be enough for it 2 supports. The width of the support is determined by the width of the bottom of your bath. Calculate the height of the supports in such a way that after installing the bath, its top edge was not higher than 70 cm. One support located in the side of the drain hole should be at the level of 17 cm, and the second is at the level of 19 cm (calculations are given for standard bath). If in the future you plan to install a decorative screen and have already managed to purchase it - take into account its height to determine the level of masonry.
2. Now take the prepared container and knead the solution consisting of cement and sand in the proportions of 1: 4.
3. Start laying supports. For reliable support of the bath, at the edges of each masonry to put at half a brick. Thus, you will form a recess on the bottom of the bottom of the bath.
4. Give the solution to dry, and in two days you can proceed to the immediate installation of the bath.
5. Put the bath on the prepared brick supports. Level Check the correctness of its installation.

1. Attach the siphon and overflow to the drain holes, as described above.
2. With the help of tiled adhesive, lull the joint between the wall and the bathroom so that the water does not register during operation.
3. Melt a solution of bath connections and supports to enhance the strength of your design.

Grounding and finishing is carried out in the same way as in the previous installation method.

To give your design aesthetic and complete view, you can set the decorative screen by which you can close the free space under the bathroom.

As you can see, the installation of the cast iron bath is a rather time-consuming process. But the results of your work will serve you not one decade.