So that the fruit tree for a long period of time gave a good harvest, careful care is needed. Watering, the fight against pests, constant feeding - all these actions are among the main in care. However, pruning is considered the most effective method of increasing the yield of the tree and the duration of its fruiting. Apple tree is no exception. This tree, like many others, will not give a good result without proper care. In addition, the well-groomed apple tree is guaranteed to decorate your garden.
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Formation of a crown of a tree
The correct trimming of the tree from the first year of his life is designed to form the crown that in the future will be the key to healthy growth and good harvest. Under a good harvest, it is considered not so much the amount of fruits as their quality: the right geometry, size, taste. After all, the incorrectly cropped apple tree can give a large number of apples that will become small, tasteless and will not have a commodity look.
First of all, before starting work on trimming an apple tree, you must perform a visual inspection of its branches and identify those that are most affected by the winter. Make it is quite simple. Damaged branches in the spring do not swell the kidney. They need to get rid of them first. This will be the first step towards the formation of a healthy tree shape.
For normal growth, apple trees experts advise to give a corrupt shape of Crown, consisting of several basic branches, which are called skeletal, and additional. This tree scheme will allow it to be more stable. In addition, in this case it will be much easier to collect fruits from it.
Apple tree trim consists of two main techniques:
- Shortening. In this case, only a certain part of the branch is removed.
- Delete. With this operation, the branch is deleted completely.
After removing dry, dead branches, it is necessary to start the crown thinning process. His essence is to open the center of the tree for better receipt of the sun's rays. To do this, it is removed completely Crohn from the central branches with all the branches. Next, you should start working with other sites.
When trimming apple trees, smoothly, like other fruit trees, it is necessary to follow a certain principle: the fewer cuts, the better. The secret is that the trees are quite painful perceive this procedure, and better one large cut, rather than a large number of small. Therefore, the work complex should be started with large branches. As they trimmed or shortening, you can evaluate how much the illumination of the crown changes.
It is very important in the production of work on trimming an apple tree in the spring. The segment left after the branch is removed, almost with a hundred percent probability after drying will begin to be fused, and over time, the trunk is formed in its place. Through it, pests can fall inside the trunk of the tree, because of which the tree may die. Based on this, experts offer to take the scope of the branch over the ring of influx. While working with no longer a young tree, which has a large number of dry and rotten branches, should be fasted neat. In this case, the trimming of the ring of the influx can lead to problems, namely to the tearing of the bark of the trunk. To avoid this, you should sprinkle the branch, leaving a small bitch, which is then removed with the help of sandwood with small teeth.
After the end of the work of the sections, it is necessary to treat garden mastic, wrair or oil paint. It is necessary to do this for the next day when trimming young branches, and immediately after trimming dry.
Apple tree trimming
To obtain a good result after trimming the fruiting tree, it is not enough to know, how to trim it correctly. It is also important to understand, at what time of the year, what work can be carried out. Ignorance of elementary rules of seasonality of work can lead to sad consequences, up to the death of a tree. In winter, you can pruning young shoots. It is possible at a temperature not lower than -5⁰. At the same time, it is first worth doing this procedure with autumn-winter and winter-hardy varieties, and then go to summer. It is worth noting that work is usually spent closer to the end of February, when strong frosts are not foreseen.
Apple tree trimming
As a rule, the main works on the pruning of fruit trees are carried out in early spring before the start of the sludge. This is done to ensure that all nutrients accumulated in the tree trunk are not lost at the supply to unnecessary branches, and were concentrated only in the part of the tree that will be fruit. After the start of the coating, the cuts of the branches will receive a large amount of nutrients, thanks to which they will be restored faster. In addition, after snowing snow, frosts are not so scary for trees, which reduces the risk of tree disease after trimming. Apple tree trimming time ranges from early March to early April, depending on the region.
Early spring is ideal for the formation of the structure of a young tree, its correct crown. The old trees can be broken, thereby increasing yield. The scheme of trimming of young apple trees and their fruiting tribesmen in the spring is somewhat different. Circumcision of the young tree is reduced to pruning the part of the trunk, so that at least two kidneys remain on the rest of the site. In the fruiting tree, attention is more focused on branches. It must be remembered that after trimming on the tree there should be a minimum half of the fruit branches.
Summer trimming apple trees
Many experienced gardeners are not recommended to carry out work in the summer. It is at this time that the most active period of vegetation of the tree accounts for the most active period, so trimming can cause more harm to him than good. Also, it is precisely for the period of summer that the activity of pests increases, which can use branches sections in order to penetrate inside the trunk. In conditions of elevated temperature and humidity, which accompany the summer period, the healing of the cuts will flow slower, which can lead to an infection.
If there is a need to still do pruning, then work is produced no later than the beginning of June. As a rule, they are reduced to the removal of competing shoots. There are only those that are planned as skeletal branches, and the rest are aggregated.
In the summer, young shoots of the apple trees are too much thinking, which leads to the need for an artificial slowdown in their growth. The pinzing process is carried out only under the condition of sufficient escape development (its length should be at least 15 cm, and it should be at least 5 full leaves). The positive side of summer works is that the growth rate of the tree can help assess the results of its work and make adjustments in it after a couple of weeks.
Trimming in autumn
Apple tree trees cut every year. Pruning is carried out after their crown get rid of foliage and before the first frosts begin. If you do it after frosts, there is a risk of slowing the wound to slow down, due to the fact that the crust around the cut can be frozen. The very technology of autumn trimming is not much different from the spring work. The first thing weak branches that do not bring fruit are removed, then dead and broken. Next, go to branches growing under a sharp corner.
To their extent, circumcision can be divided into three types:
- Weak circumcision. This species is mostly applied to young trees. It is in shortening the branch by 25% of the length of its growth per season.
- The average circumcision applies to trees with age from 5 to 7 years. In this case, 30-35% of the branch length acquired from spring is removed.
- Strong circumcision. It is made with an eye on the crop of the next season. There is such circumcision in thinning the crown at which most of the middle branches is removed.
Trim young apple trees in spring
These works are designed to strengthen the root tree system and form the right crown. The fact is that after the transfer of the roots of the apple tree is experiencing some shock and need nutrients for recovery. If the upper part is shorted, the root system will need to work with a double load in order to provide it with the necessary substances.
When trimming an apple tree in the spring is the following. If there are no branches on the tree, it is triggered at an altitude of 1 m from the ground level. If the shoots are already formed, then at an altitude of 0.6 m from the ground they are completely removed. Then the branches are removed, which grows under an acute angle in relation to the trunk. Such processes under the severity of fruits usually quickly break. They can be saved by putting the strut between the branch and the barrel. If the branches have the right angle, then it is cut, leaving 5-6 kidneys. They will become an excellent basis for the future crown. Also carry off the conductor, leaving its length 15-25 cm above the branches.
To form the crown of a future apple tree, as a rule, a long-term structure is used. The first tier form three massive branches, the second - two. More tiers, as a rule, do not.
Trimming the old apple tree in the spring: step-by-step instruction
The procedure for carrying out the pruning work is as follows:
- It is necessary to remove the young piglery from the root of the tree, as well as growing from the barrel.
- We remove the branches that "look" down.
- Cut the shoots that are directed to the trunk.
- We remove crossed branches.
- Cut the branches that grow too close to each other. It remains the most promising branch.
- Lower branches are removed.
- Wolf branches are removed.
Pruning coloniary apple trees in spring
This kind of apple tree has certain trimming requirements. So, specialists do not recommend removing the central branch. It is shocked only in case of poor growth of the tree to stimulate development. The fact is that the top kidney should not be damaged by the colon-shaped trees, otherwise the tree will begin to branch intensively. This type of trees has a feature inherent only. The shape of the column, thanks to which they received such a name, are preserved in their own, throughout all the growth stages.
At trimming of this kind of apple trees there is one basic rule. The more you cut, the more intense will develop what remains. That is, if you caulate more than 1/3 branches, leaving 4-5 kidneys, then you will get powerful and healthy shoots. If you cut down less, leaving more kidneys, there will be many shoots, but they will all be very weak. It is hardly worth counting on a good harvest of them.
Much attention should be paid to work with painting escape, especially in the first years of the tree of wood. It is tied up to the vertical support, and from the branches form the so-called fruit links. Their formation is made as follows. In the first year of the tree of the tree, the lateral processes are cut into 2 kidneys. From those who remained, in a year, powerful annual shoots should appear. They are divided by position on horizontal and vertical. The horizontal escape remains poor, and the vertical is cut into 2 kidneys. The next year, fruits may appear on the intact shoot, and 2 powerful escapes will turn off. Two years later, the branch is cut off, and with the remaining shoots extend the same operation.
