The construction of the house is a major task, especially if everyone wants to do it yourself. In order to build a house, it is necessary to follow the execution of work. First the box is erected, then you can insert the window frames, block the roof and only after that it is allowed to start in the internal finishing works. At the first stage of these works it is not an easy task - it is necessary to make a draft floor. Styling the black floor is performed in different ways.
Content
A varnish floor can be performed in different ways: the fastest and not so hard way is the fill of concrete or concrete tie. This method is called "wet" or executing the "dry" method, when the wooden structure is first mounted. If you build a house with your own hands and want everything in it perfectly and efficiently, then it is worth considering the option of flooring on the frame or lags. First you need to build a wooden base consisting of durable elements (solid wooden timber), which will be able to accept the main load and serve as the basis for the finishing coating (the main floor).
In addition, it is necessary to make the gap between the draft floor, this is the so-called air layer, which can be left between the crate to perform the draft floor and lags. Just the resulting space is a layer of noise insulation, but with its tasks copes not well. This can be corrected if you fall asleep the layer between lags and a rough floor. To do this, you can use clamzite or purchase a special material called "dry screed". Then you can not only solve this problem, but also to keep warm.
Based on this, consider the laying options:
- The underlying - performed from durable materials and assumes the load. It can be both a special soil (pre-prepared) and overlapping slabs.
- The alignment layer is performed from dense building materials to align the previous layer. Also necessary when laying this layer, take into account a small slope of the surface. To do this, perform a concrete screed.
- The intermediate layer is the so-called layer, which is between the floor layers.
- Insulating layer, which should maintain heat, push moisture and ensure noise insulation. Where to position it depends on the selected method of styling the draft floor.
The concept of "rough" floor means that this layer can be performed from the board or stakenik (the defective boards are allowed). Thermal insulation material is stacked on top of the cast boards, it is necessary so that the finishing floor is not deformed over the years.
Based on this, the draft floor can be done in this way:
- on lags;
- beams;
- stop right to the ground.
Black floor laying technology
We have already figured out with the concept of "draft floor" and found out that this is the foundation that is necessary in order to put the main flooring (linoleum, parquet and so on). The main task of such a floor is the uniform distribution of the load on the floor, which is then distributed onto the walls.
The main and most accessible option is laying on lags. First, lags are stacked on the base coating, given a small gap between wooden bars. If the area is large, then you need to make a crate and connect jumpers between the boards. Jumpers are also made from a wooden bar. It is necessary to ensure that the surface of the logs is perfectly smooth (by level).
From the bottom of the lag, you need to attach the bars and already perform the floor laying (rough version). Wood cooker or plywood is suitable as materials, as well as wooden boards. By the way, a very important point: between the lags you need to lay a layer of insulation and a layer of waterproofing material.
And now we learn more about how to perform work on styling the draft floor with your own hands:
- It is necessary to align the base of the floor. To do this, you need to build a wooden frame. It will take a wooden bar or lag. If underground is not more than 25 cm, then you can use this method.
- The distance between the lags should be at least 50 cm.
- Do not forget to set the zero level.
- The clearance of the walls is withstanding from 2 to 3 cm. At this gap, it is necessary to lay a layer of insulation (it can be mineral wool), and then close the slots of plinths.
- We make a crate of a wooden bar, we attach to the lags of an OSP plate or plywood sheets.
- A good way to lay the draft floor - in the dispersion. It is necessary to leave a small gap between plywood sheets or other material for the first floor. The gap must be at least 2 mm and it should be right on the lag. So you can avoid the edge of the floor when loading.
- Do not forget that the faeer or other selected material must be treated with an antiseptic.
- By the way, if you decide to make a boardwalk, then consider the natural direction of light when laying the board (laying of boards from the window).
Most people are experiencing and asked as such a question, can be saved on building materials, but so that the quality of work remains at the height. This is also possible if you choose a different way of laying lag is a rarefied laying. And yet - if the "landing" is low low, then you can save on materials and not fill the space insulation.
It is very important when performing work on styling a draft floor to consider the quality of the flooring. You can choose conventional boards (not processed) and lay diagonally. If you have a chalkboard slightly thinner, it can be left to lay a clean floor, as the thickness of the base in the end will still remain within the limits of generally accepted construction norms. In addition, the inverting fibers of plywood will exclude sex bending under load.
Laying the draft floor "on the soil"
As the cost of laying a draft floor remains high enough, and the price of laying the draft floor is only rising every year, it is possible to cope with these works yourself. There is no need to invite a construction team, spend funds not only for the purchase of materials, but also to pay for the work of the masters.
So, in order to save, you can perform a black floor device on the 1st floor using the laying method on the ground.
We understand with the works, begin to bottom, gradually laying the layer behind the layer:
- for the mumbling of the initial layer, you will need river sophisticated sand. The thickness of the subflowing is up to 70 mm, it is necessary to compact this layer well;
- next, we embarrass the layer of rubble shallow fraction or buy clay. Multimum 10 thickness, a maximum of 12 cm;
- we carry out a rough screed. To do this, we prepare a cement solution and pour it directly on the layer of clay. Screed thickness - no more than 7 cm, but not less than 5 cm;
- after completely drying the screed, laying of waterproofing material is allowed, and then the layer of insulation. It depends on which region you live in;
- final stage - execution of work on the installation of a finishing screed. The layer thickness should be at least 5 cm. Moreover, it is necessary to take into account the laying of the reinforced grid (the grid with 10 cm cells).
As you can see, there is nothing complicated in the styling floor, everything is simple and accessible.
Dry floor laying
If the area of \u200b\u200bthe structure is small, lags are installed on the beams, then the order of work is:
- pump the holes to install columns (from brick). 40 cm pits sizes (this is a pit-cube);
- next, it is necessary to carefully catch the sand (a layer of no more than 10 cm) and fall asleep another layer of rubble (also 10 cm);
- after these works, we pour the space by concrete solution and put the columns;
- the insulation layer is stacked on top;
- a layer of waterproofing is also stacked on woodproofing. It can be rubberoid;
- after that, it is possible to put lags directly on the basis and fasten down - fastening the bars around the perimeter;
- fastening the lag and the impression "sit" to the corners;
- do not forget that you need to retreat from the walls 3 cm (at least 2 cm), given the properties of the wood expand when the moisture and temperature drops;
- it is not necessary to fasten the lags too much, it is only important to fix them so that they do not interfere with the styling of the draft floor. To do this, you will need small screws and dowels 3 or 4 cm so as not to deform the tree;
- the gap between the wooden base will depend on the size of the insulation layer. First, you must buy a heater, the optimum width of 40 to 60 cm;
- lag interval to grillage supports socket or - at least 10 cm;
- if you have already installed on the sides of the joists, you must attach the skull bar or board slightly larger than the width of the joists to 5 cm on all sides;
- on the bars to be stacked boards. Their thickness may be different. You can use plywood. Suffice laying back to back, screwed to the beam or lag is not necessary;
- after the joists are laid, it's time to take care of wiring and pipe laying;
- can now be put waterproofing layer to protect the wood from moisture and rot. The layer of material to put in view of the fact that it is slightly recessed in the wall. Attach the waterproofing can be stapled;
- further stacking the insulation layer (insulation width \u003d lag step). Choose a thickness slightly smaller than the lag (laid horizontally) to provide a gap;
- what to do if the insulation is the same width as the lag? Then you need to nail the extra slats directly to joists;
- insulation layer thickness - 15 cm;
- after laying the insulation layer is necessary to lay a layer of vapor barrier material (plus docked on wall 3 cm), the dock can be made to nail braces and slats on the vapor barrier material directly on the joists;
- now place the finishing board to hide the rough floor and achieve a level floor surface. Indentation stacking boards of walls - 1, a maximum of 2 cm, considering that the wood must "breathe". If you choose to save, then the board can be replaced by OSB plates;
- soundproofing material layer is placed directly on the board, to enhance thermal insulating properties of the coating;
- additional description can be directly on the sound-insulating material laid Finish coating, with floor leveling. During operation, each must check a coating layer by layer.
If you want to put dry subfloor to the joists directly to the floor slab, the overall operation is almost the same. The only thing that logs be stacked directly on the plate, just before you do this, you need to put treated with an antiseptic solution slab fiberboard under logs. Attach the joists need to corners on the screws. Cranial bar with a board is not required, since the floor "lies" on the plate.
Another feature: a heater should be chosen not too wide (7 cm thick) as the floor slab itself broad. Lags should be a section of 5 to 10 cm with a minimum pitch of 40 cm.
Look laying subfloor in the photo:
Basic flooring features
If there is no basement, the load on the screed will be minimal, then the rough version of the screed can not be done. This applies to the way of screed on the ground. Then you can do as follows: directly on the ceramzite pour liquid cement mortar (cement plus sand, part of cement and 2 parts of sand). Such a liquid solution is well seized, time saves a little. The next layer is the laying of the waterproofing film.
If there is a need to warm the floor, then you need to leave a small distance between the foundation (Chernov), the gap must be at least 1 cm and no more than 2 cm. Use foamed building materials. This maintains a concrete screed, especially when the temperature drops.
It is very important when performing a pure concrete screed take into account its level of location.
Here also has its own rules:
- If the base is not insulated, then the tie is better to make a slightly above the ground level (at the top mark). If this is not done, then a cold bridge is formed, the wall will begin to freeze. Hence the dampness in the house and the appearance of mold.
- If the base is insulated, the pure screed is made, as usual, without any restrictions.
How to insulate the rough floor
When laying a draft floor in any way, it is necessary to put a layer of insulation. It can be located at different levels, filling out free space, fit on top to the finishing screed or straight on the draft coating.
It is very important not to forget even before you have started working on the styling of the draft floor, to process additionally with antiseptic solutions, to then put a layer of vapor barrier material. You should not ignore these recommendations, since the floor in the house is made 1 time and there will be no chance of correcting errors.
As for the choice of materials for insulation - the best option is the laying of Minvati. But if you want to do otherwise, you can lay any insulation made from synthetic materials that will not rot. You can also use polystyrene, ceramisite or foam (solid only) instead of minvati.
And another important point is the laying of the waterproofing layer. It is better to put a layer of waterproofing throughout the perimeter of the structure. Well, if you want to save, then do not miss sights with high humidity - this is a bathroom and a kitchen. Here you have to lay a layer of waterproofing material. It may be necessary, it may be standard waterproofing (coating) or materials based on resin or polyurethane. The most reliable option is rapid waterproofing (polymer cement). It includes synthetic additives and perfectly copes with the tasks. Such material is indispensable for houses with a movable foundation.
Laying a rough floor. Video: